Improvement in sewing-machines for making puffing



@anni @dat EDWARD D.v eInD, or sYRAcUs'E, Youn.

Letters Patent No. 109,816, dated December 6, 1870; antedated November 25, 1870.

|MPRoveMENT iN SEWING-MACHINES FOR MAKING PUFFING.

The Schedule referred to in these Letters Patent and making part of the same.

I, EDWARD D. Gran, of the city of Syracuse, in the county of Onondaga and State of N ew York, have invented certain Improvements in Machine for Making Putting and Seanling, of which the following is a speciiication.

This invention has for its object the production of an improved machine for pung cloth and other kindred purposes, and consists, mainly, of various coinbination of'its parts, land in certain specific details of construction, all of which will be fully described hereafter.

In the drawing- Figure 1, sheet 1, is a'perspcctive view ot my iniproved machine.

Figure 1, sheet 2, isavertical sectional view, showing the carriage and the pitman moving the same, and also the eccentric and the pitman moving the take-up reel, with the clamp-dog and foot-lifter.

Figure 2, sheet 2, is a top view ofthe double shuttlc-carrier, with the shuttles'and double face-plate.

Figure 3, sheet 2, is a vertical sectional view, showing the tucker and eccentric moving the same, and also the hemmer and foot-lifter.

Figure 4, sheet 2, is an end viewpshowing the feed# rollers and hinge-joint.

Figure 5, sheet 2, is a side elevation of the shuttlecarrier, showing the position of the shuttle.

Figure (i, sheet 2, is a top view of the end of the double shuttle-carrier.

Figure 7', sheet 2, is "a top v-iew of the belt-shifter and brake.

Figure 8, sheet 2, is an end elevation ot' Ithe 'hemmer.

Figure 9, sheet 2, is a side' elevation ot the saine,

Figure 10, sheet 2, is a view of the tension device on the take-up rech v Figure l1, sheet- 2, is a side view of the belt-shifter and brake. 4

Figure 1, sheet 3, is a foot elevation, showing the cross-head, needle-bars, needles, and needle-cap, rookshafts, pitman, and feed-rollers.

Figure 2, sheet 3, is a vertical transverse sectional elevation, showing the position of the spools, the line ofthe thread from the spools to the guide-rod, from the guide-rod to the tensionldevices, from thereto the take-up rod, and thence to the needles; also the position ot' the take-up rod, the needle-bar, and double herinner, the arrangement of the reels, the, tucliers, leed-rollers, and guides; also the line of movement of the cloth.

To enable others skilled in the art to malte and use my invention, i will proceed to describe its different parts.

A, tig. 1, sheet 1, represents the frame of the ma-v chine, which is prefera-biy made of iron, the difterent parts being securely bolted or otherwise attached toL gether. l

The form of said frame is such as to give the proper position to the various parts which are attached theretf).

rlhe reel B, it will be observed, is located low down upon the frame, it being nearly in a line with the bed` plates of the latter.

Upon this reel is placed the main or wide strip of cloth, upon which the other narrow strips are to he sewed.

'C represents a sectional reel, upon which are placed the narrow strips, which pass through the hemmers. lltis loc-ated much higher up on the frame than the reel B, for the purpose of placing the strips at the proper angle to be brought into the hemmcrs, and also to afford suliicicnt room for the operator to suitably arrange the cloth.

The reels B D are provided with a 4tension device, located upon the end of the shaft, such device being correctly shown in tig. 10, sheet 2.

The tension device for reel C consists of a hook, c, the lower end oi' which is pivoted to the `frame, as shown in iig. 1, sheet 1, and is so arranged' that its curved upper end swings over the shaft c'.'

It isprovided with a thumb-screw, y, by means of which the pressure upon the shaft may be regulated, and thus control its speed.

If desired, a bearing-plate may be interposed between the end ot the screw and the shaft.

By means of this contrivance, the movement 'of the reel C is readilycontrolled, as may be necessary, either to prevent the strips from paying 'off too rapidly, or to permit the feed t-o make'the desired amount ot' gathering in the under strip or main piece G. e

D, fig 1, sheet 1, iig. 2, sheet 3, represents the take-up reel, upon which the strip of finished puffing is wound, after passing the needles.

Motion is given to this reel by the belt N, which passes around the pulleys or drums E and F.

The drum F, fig. 1, sheet 1, is attached to the end of the shaft O, which latter is moved by means of the pitman a., iig. l, sheet 2, the pitman being operated v by means ot' an eccentric, H.

The pitman a is connected with the shaft by means of a lever, El, which latter is provided with a ti'ict-ionv the needles.

ofthe hub of pulley E, and is secured in place' by means of a setscrew, al, which enters a socket in the end of' the sbatte.

A washer, s2, is interposed between the other face of the hub and the face of the cap, as shown.

By adjusting the set-screw al, the pressure against the bearing c'is regulated, and, consequently,l also the speed of the shaft e.

Having now described the position of the reels and the manner of' regulating their speed, and thus controlling the movement of the cloth as itA passes through the machine, I will now proceed to describe the guides, tension-rods, hemmers, and tucking device, by means of which' the cloth is properly operated upon.

G, fig. 2, sheet 3, represents the main or wide strip of' cloth, forming a foundation, to which the narrower strips are attached.

K represents the narrow strips, which may be employed in any desired number within the capacity of the machine.

The main strip G is placed upon the reel B, and then drawn down beneath the roller "3 and rod M, and over the rod L. From these it is carried forward between the rollers C, and passing through the guides beneath the herinner-feet, is brought through' between the rollers R2 R3, and upon the reel D.

lThe roller E is provided with suitable collars to guide the cloth.

The rod L is held by means oi a spring, which has a tendency to yieldslightly, as the cloth is drawn by the tucker, and this prevents it from being torn.

The roller S3 serves to straighten and smooth the cloth before it enters thetinal guide, and passes to As the cloth passes through the hemmer, the strips upon reel C are brought down-through them, and are attached to the cloth by the action of the needles.

The construction of the hemmer will now be described.

( s, tiff. 9, sheet 2, represents a T-shaped piece of" metal, a transverse section of which is shown in tig. 8. This piece of metal is secured to the presser-foot, as shown in ti". 9, and is set at the proper angle toreceive the strips K.

About' the T-shaped piece is located a cap, l), which is held il place by being attached to the foot b', or its Vertical'standard by means oi' a screw, as shown.

The upper end, as shown at B, fig. 9, sheet 2, is converted into a guide, by plucinga piece across its under side, thus making it the width and thickness of the strip of cloth to be hemmed.

As the strip enters the guide and passes into the hcmmer, its edges are caused by the cap to turn about the bar ot' the T-shaped piece S and become folded in position for hemmiuc.

The device described will cause but a single fold of t-he cloth to be made, but ifdesircd, the cap can easily be caused to make a double fold.

The strips K K, after having been properly folded, pass down through the lower part of the hemmcrand presser-foot innncdiately in front of the needles, and are sewed to the main strip, the seams being close to the edge of' the bennned strips. 4

R2 1i, fig. 2, sheet 3, represent the rollers, which are employed to draw the cloth through the machine. One oi' these is preferably covered with rubber, and the other is provided with creases, and .the cloth is lirmly grasped and drawn forward.

An intermittent motion is given to this roller by means of a friction-dog,r or pawl, actuated by a lever and cam under the table, and engaging the pulley H2 of the feed-roller.

le have now shown bow thecloth has been formed and seu'ed, with the exception of the tucking operation, which consists of a number of strips of springsteel, which are in width a' little more than are the strips to be sewed on. Thesey leaves of steel, as shown, at F2, 2f, sheet 3, are secured to a bar running. across and above thestrip of cloth as it enters the machine.

The other or opposite ends of these steel pieces press down lupon the bed or main strip G, as shown in ff. 2. These pieces or tuckers are provided with litt-le notches or teeth, so thai-.they will not slip over the cloth, but push it forward. They are moved by the lever J2, tig. 2, sheet 3, which is supportedfen a pivot at L4.

The lower end of' thisl lever i's moved by zt cam, S2, fig. 2, sheet 3, which is on the main shaft T5, same ligure.

The lever is held upon the cam by a spring, E2, same figure. p

This lever can have the whole stroke of the cam, or may be stopped at any point by the block B, same figure. .i

f This block" is movable, and can be adjusted at the desired distance.

It will be seen that by this arrangement the tncker is moved each time the needles make a stroke.'

The tuckers take up a fold or tuck ot' cloth so as to be under the descending needles in timeto be stitched on at each time of descent.

The manner of winding and unwinding the cloth, andhemming of the strips, and the tucking of the main piece having been shown, we will now describe the sewing devices.

The cross-head R, upoirwhich the `needle-bars are` secured, as shown in tig. 1, sheet 3, is made lto run upon two ways, which are a part ofthe upright posts ofthe frame, as shown at B?. v v

Across the top of these posts, and connecting them together is a lintel.

Motion is imparted to the cross-head by means of the pitman T, same figure and sheet. These pitmen are operated by a joint or short lever, which swings with the rock-shalt T.

This rock-shaft is moved the suiticient part of a circle to give the necessary stroke to the needles,and, bp'swinging past the center or dead-point, the needle is slightly lifted, thus giving requisite motion for opening the loop to admit the shuttle.

The rock-shaft T is vibrated by the pitman P, same ligure and sheet, which is connected at its lower end with the main shaft at E5, fig. 1, sheet 1.

The carriage, G2, iig. l, sheet 2, runs upon the ways H', lig. 1, sheet l.

This carriage is moved by a pitman, h, sheet 2 and g. 1.

This pitnian is. operated by a` crank in the main shaft T5, tig. 1, sheet 2.

The shuttles \V lie in carriers T', plainly shown in fic. 2, sheet 2. These carriers are so formed that they drive two shuttles each, with the exception ofthe one iig. 5, sheet 2, which is to carry one'oppositc shuttle, as will be shown hereafter. These run between face plates, as shown in fig. 2, sheet 2, at G3.

The needles come down on each side of' these faceplates, and in the slots F F in the lace-plate.

The shuttles are made opposite' or right and left, so that the face sides are toward each other, as shownat XV W.

The object of th is arrangement of face-plates, doubleshuttle carriers, and right-and-left shuttles is to admit ot the seams being made more closely together.

The needle-bars Al, lig. l, sheet 3, are fitted into the cross-head, and are lleld in placel by a screw.

A slot is made in the bar suflicientlyzlarge toadmit the head oi' the screw at the upper end,and at 4the lower end is narrow enough to allow the headof 'the screw to hohl it fast in its position. Thelowerend is provided with a cap, betweenwhieh and the main bar two needles are held at a sufficient distance apart to correspond with the face-plates 03,1iy. 2, sheet 2..

On the upper end of these bars is an adjustable cross-piece A, for the purpose of adjusting the takeup, as regards height ot' stroke.

llhe spools 1:'1 P1, fig. 2,'slieet 3, are set upon pins upon the rods E* and C, tig. l, sheet 1. These rods are one above the other, as shown.

The guide-rod to `which the thread is brought is midway between these, or ,nearly so,` as shown at T,

iig. 2, sheet 3, and, in order to give the tension to the needle-thread by fric-tion against rod T'"`,'the rods are so formed as to t in journals at their ends, and can be turned so as to throw thc pins and spools in such relative position with the rod T, as to bring the thread more or less against it. These rods or racks are held in place by a spring and pin.

As the machine may be driven by power, two pulleys are attached to the main shaft, one loose and one fast.

The driver or balance-wheel is on the same end of the shaft, and is nea-1' the loose pulley, as is shown in tig. 1l, sheet 2.

The belt runs on the loose pulley, and when it is desired to set the machine in motion, the belt-shifter nieves it to the fast pulley by the device shown in figs. 7 and 1l, sheet i3.

Ll is a crank, which is operated b'y a rod passing through the imichine-l'rame, the handle oi' which is seen at A, iig. l, sheet l. f

The crank Ll rcciprocates the rod T, upon the end ot' which is a clamp or brake.

This rod works through aslot in a bracket. R, saine figure, so that it can be moved against the rim ot' the driving-whecl by operating the handle A?, as above mentioned.

Above this rod, and 011 a line with the upper l'aee fthe pulleys, is the belt-shifter, a top view ot which is shown in tig. 7, sheet 2.

This shifting-rod is secured to the saine projecting support as the brake-rod, the said support acting as a pivot, across which it works.

This shitting-rod is operated by being connected at its end with the reciprocating brake-rod T, by a connecting-piece, G', which, when the brake is on the driving-wheel, and theshif'ter on the loose pulley is at right angles, as shown in iig. 7, sheet 2. This connection being at right angles, the belt-shifter cannot be moved.

It will'bev seen that the shifter' and brake, operating together by means of the right-angled piece G', the

machine can be pnt in operation and stopped with great ease and rapidity.

The different parts ofthe machine having now been described, it will beseen that the cloth t'roln which the fabric is to be-made is arranged upon the reels..

The bed or main strip G, iig. 2, sheet 3, passed down to the tucker P2, saine sheetand figure, through the interveningdevices. Here the strips are brought down from the sectional rcel C, salue ligure, through the hem mers B, same figure, where the edges are both hennned, passing directly from this hennner under the needles into the feeding-rollers, and from there up to the take-np reel; the thread passing from the spool to the tension and guide-rod, and from thence, as shown in iig. 2, sheet 3, directly to the take-up, and from the take-up to the needles.

The machine being ready for operation, the operator stands near the lever handle A2 ofthe shifter and stop, by moving which he sets the machine in motion, and is in a position to watch the cloth and thread as it is fed into the machine.

A cord may be run into each hem from spools sit-u ated upon the rod ET, ii". 1, sheet l, the cord passing in at each side ot' the hemmer, the hem being made or formed around the cord, and the same being close lto the cord, giving the edge of the strip so sewed on, a round and raised appearance, thus making puting with two cords in each strip sewed ou.

Having thus descnibed my machine,

Wha-t I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Pate-n t, is-

l. The guide-roller E, thc rod M, the spring rod L, and guide-rollers S, when arranged as described, and used in connection with each other for the purpose set forth;

2. The shifting-device, consisting ot' the crank L, reciprocating brake T, link Gr', and pivoted shipper D, when operating together for thc purpose specified.

The double henimer l', coniposed ot' the T- shaped -piece fr s, and lipped tap l), torturning a hem on each edge ot' the narrow'strp, as set forth.

d. The adjustable spool-racks GE", in combination with the rod T, for governing `the tension ot' the needle-tln'eads, as set forth.

5. The combination, withsewing mechanism, ofthe herinner, constructed to turn. both edges ot' a narrow sti-ip, and secured to the presser, a feeding mechanism and a tucking mechanism, substantially as described.

RDW/'ARD D. GIRD. Witnesses:

Hnzvnv Baeoen, 0. F. SAUL. 

